Kyoto is celebrated for its iconic temples, Zen gardens, and centuries-old streets, but its network of rivers, canals, and waterways offers a unique perspective of the city. Whether gliding through tunnels carved in the 19th century, biking along the tranquil Kamo River, or sipping sake brewed with soft Kyoto water, exploring the city’s waterways reveals the hidden stories of this former imperial capital.
Kyoto’s Waterways: A Legacy of Restoration
Once the imperial capital of Japan for over a thousand years, Kyoto faced decline after the capital was relocated to Tokyo during the Meiji Restoration in 1868. To revive the city’s fortunes, Governor Kunimichi Kitagaki turned to Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest freshwater lake, as the solution. By constructing the Lake Biwa Canal in 1890, Kyoto gained irrigation for farmland, hydroelectric power, and a transportation route for goods and people.
Today, this historic canal system offers visitors an enchanting way to experience Kyoto’s beauty. Glass-topped boats cruise through tunnels carved into the mountains, revealing the ingenuity of the 19th-century workers who brought the project to life.
Exploring Kyoto’s Waterways
Shirakawa River: A Quiet Oasis
The Shirakawa River, located near Kyoto’s historic Gion district, offers a serene escape. This narrow waterway is no more than a foot deep and 20 feet wide, its bed studded with smooth stones that create shimmering ripples in the sunlight.
Strolling along its banks, you might encounter couples enjoying sandwiches on nearby benches or children crossing charming stone bridges. A short 10-minute walk north leads to Okazaki Park, where the river opens into the wider, emerald-green Outou Canal, part of the Lake Biwa system. The sleek National Museum of Modern Art sits on its banks, while cherry blossoms drape their branches over the water, creating a scene of dreamlike beauty.
Lake Biwa Canal Cruise: Tunnels and History
For a deeper dive into Kyoto’s water history, take the Lake Biwa Canal Cruise. The boat ride begins at the Keage dock and passes through four brick tunnels, the longest stretching 1.5 miles. Inside the tunnel, projections illustrate how the canal was built, highlighting the determination and resourcefulness of its creators.
After emerging from the cold, fast tunnels, the scenery shifts to a tranquil bend in the canal, where pine and maple trees blend with cherry blossoms, their branches dappling the water with sunlight and shade—an effect known as komorebi.
- Cost: ¥6,000–¥14,000 ($42–$98 AUD) per person.
- Duration: 80 minutes one-way.
- Season: Late March to early June, October to November.
Okazaki Jikkokubune Boat Ride: Blossoms and Tradition
During sakura season in March and April, the Okazaki Jikkokubune Boat Ride offers an intimate journey along the Outou Canal. Departing from the Nanzenji boat reservoir, this half-hour round-trip cruise takes you past cherry trees heavy with blossoms, their petals floating gently on the water. The air is filled with the warmth of spring, flute music from onboard speakers, and the quiet joy of waving to passersby on the canal’s embankments.
- Cost: ¥2,000 ($14 AUD) per person.
- Duration: 30 minutes.
- Season: March to April.
Visiting the Kifune Shrine: A Sacred Journey
On a rainy day, venture into Kyoto’s northern hills to visit the Kifune Shrine, dedicated to the water god Takaokami-no-kami. Located along the Kibune River, this ancient shrine, moved to its current site in 1055, celebrates the purity and power of water.
From Kibuneguchi Station, the journey to the shrine involves a scenic 1.3-mile walk through forested hills, where you’ll pass moss-covered rocks and signs warning of bears. At the shrine, stone steps lined with vibrant vermilion lamp posts lead to a courtyard where sacred water flows. Visitors can dip sheets of paper into the water to reveal fortunes, a ritual that connects the shrine’s history to Kyoto’s enduring reverence for water.
- Admission: Free.
- Open: May to November, 6 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Sake Breweries in Fushimi: Kyoto’s Liquid Heritage
South of Kyoto’s city center, the Fushimi district is home to one of Japan’s most renowned sake brewing regions, with about 25 breweries. The area’s soft underground water—perfect for brewing—has earned Fushimi sake the nickname of “feminine sake” for its smooth and delicate flavor.
At the Gekkeikan Okura Sake Museum, you’ll learn how the district’s canals transported rice to the breweries and how Kyoto’s unique water quality shapes the flavor of its sake. After the tour, visit the nearby tasting room to sample a variety of sakes, including the fruity junmai daiginjo made with locally grown iwai rice.
- Cost: ¥13,000 ($91 AUD) per person for a guided tour.
- Duration: 3 hours.
- Season: Year-round.
Biking Along the Kamo River: A Ride Through History
The Kamo River bisects Kyoto, offering a peaceful route for cycling and a window into the city’s past. Renting bikes through the kotobike app, we pedaled north along the east bank, passing families picnicking under umbrellas, schoolboys on cross-country runs, and musicians practicing by the water.
The riverbanks have long been a stage for Kyoto’s vibrant social life. In the 1600s, platforms were built for riverside dining, a tradition that continues today during summer. At the same time, the Kamo River bore witness to the city’s darker history, with public executions once carried out on its banks.
Cycling along this historic artery, we were accompanied by circling hawks, swooping herons, and the steady rhythm of the river’s flow, offering a serene counterpoint to Kyoto’s bustling streets.
If You Go
- Lake Biwa Canal Cruise: From Keage dock to Miidera Station.
- Okazaki Jikkokubune Boat Ride: Seasonal, March and April.
- Kifune Shrine: Accessible by train and a short walk.
- Sake Brewery Tours: Fushimi district, daily guided tours available.
- Bike Rentals: Download the kotobike app for access across the city (¥900 for six hours).
Exploring Kyoto’s waterways offers a refreshing alternative to its well-trodden streets, revealing the city’s rich history, seasonal beauty, and spiritual connection to water. Whether you’re gliding under cherry blossoms, cycling along the Kamo, or sipping sake in Fushimi, Kyoto’s rivers and canals provide a serene and unforgettable journey.
